Archive for the ‘Cat health’ Category

I receive a newsletter from the Sunbear Squad. The Sunbear Squad transforms animal lovers into animal welfare defenders, with knowledge, tools and inspiration. They have a great website, I highly suggest you checking them out! OK, here’s the article:

Signs Of Heat Stroke in Animals

Do you know WHAT to do?

SIGNS

The signs depend upon the extent of heat stroke. In the early stages, your pet will pant rapidly, have thick, ropey saliva, and have bright red gums. His body temperature will be between 104-106°F.

As the body temperature climbs above 106°F, your pet will go into shock with subsequent organ shutdown.

He will have pale gums, be weak and dizzy, with vomiting and diarrhea. The brain becomes affected and he may seizure or fall into a coma. In this case, he requires immediate, life-saving veterinary intervention.

The normal body temperature of a dog or cat ranges between 38 – 39°C or 103°F. Our pets maintain this temperature through panting, however sometimes they are unable to lose enough heat. Dogs and cats probably do suffer from heat cramps and heat exhaustion like us humans but the symptoms are mild and we don’t recognize them. The condition that we see is heatstroke, and it may cause the death of a pet.

CAUSES

BEING IN A HOT CAR. Never leave your pet in a parked car in sunlight. The car heats up to be like a sauna even on mild days.

EXCESSIVE EXERCISE ON A HOT DAY. Minimize exercise in the heat of the day. Avoid exercising your dog in unusually hot or humid conditions especially at the start of summer. Most heatstroke cases are seen at the start of summer.

NOT ENOUGH SHADE OR COLD WATER. Make sure your pet has plenty of shade to escape to during the day. Make sure your pet has plenty of fresh cool water (the water should be placed in the shade) available at all times.

SOLUTIONS

AWAY FROM THE HEAT. Remove your pet from the hot environment. Get him out of the car and away from the sun.

TO THE VET ASAP. If you suspect severe heatstroke and your pet has collapsed, get your pet immediate veterinary care. In this case, the organs may be shutting down and he needs specialized care to survive. While in transit it is important to continue to apply cool wet towels to the back of the neck and groin area.

WHAT’S THE TEMP? Use a rectal thermometer and find your pet’s exact temperature: if it is 104°F or higher, he has heatstroke, and you need to take action.

COOL DOWN. Run cold water over the back of your pet’s head. Place cold packs wrapped in towels between the back legs, on the belly and in the armpits. Wet towels can be used instead. You can use a garden hose to run the water over the back of his head.

ALCOHOL SOLUTION. Rubbing alcohol will also speed up heat loss; it can be applied to the belly and groin, cooling as it evaporates. Liberally spread it on the skin; the most important thing is reducing the temperature in a controlled way.

DO NOT IMMERSE IN COLD WATER. This treatment does bring your pet’s temperature down, but tends to overcorrect it and then your pet may be seriously unwell, cold and wet.

RE-HYDRATE. Let your pet drink as much cold water as he can. If you have an electrolyte replacement, such as Gatorade, then add this to his water. If your pet drinks lots of water at once it is very likely to vomit. Once your pet is refusing water you can leave the bowl of water with it.

WATCH FOR SHOCK. Pets with severe heatstroke are at risk for shock. In this case you don’t want to wrap him in a blanket, but you can at least provide sugar. Rub corn syrup or honey on his gums while you are in transit to your vet.

DO NOT OVERCOOL. When your pet stops panting, they are likely at a normal temperature. You can check this by taking their temperature again. If it’s 103°F or 38 °C then stop the cooling.

SPECIAL CASES. Certain breeds are at a high risk for heatstroke, namely the brachycephalics (dogs with pushed-in faces). These include Pugs and Bulldogs; they snore and snort and have difficulty breathing at the best of time. In spite of them being a veterinarian’ s best friend, you should avoid exercising them on hot days, and always be on the lookout for early signs of heatstroke.

Be an earth angel. Adopt a not-quite-perfect dog or cat that needs you, and help it heal. Such a companion will teach you much about selfless love, generosity, and tolerance—becoming an earth angel for you.

www.sunbearsquad.org

I’ve had all four of my cats who range in age from under a year to 14 years old, from kitten-hood. I’ve learned a lot about cats and kittens in those 14 years! This is a good list to start with when it comes to your new kitten, or a newly adopted cat.

The Essential Kitten Supplies List

If you are a first-time kitten owner, there are a number of supplies you will need to purchase before bringing your new kitten home.

The Basics

- Kitten food – Ideally, you will need to purchase a high-quality kitten diet recommended by your veterinarian. Many vets recommend feeding canned food several times per day and leaving dry food available all day long (kittens only).

- Multiple food and water bowls – These should be either stainless steel or ceramic. Plastic bowls are popular but can cause skin inflammation (“feline chin acne”) in many cats.

- Litter boxes, cat litter and scooper – Remember, the general rule of thumb is that you need one litter box per cat plus one. One cat will need two boxes, two cats will need three boxes, etc. Cats prefer clumping litter that is fine, sandy and unscented.

- Scratching posts – Cats need scratching posts to play on, to “mark” using the scent glands on their paws, and to sharpen their claws. These will also protect your furniture by offering kitty an alternative! One large cat-tree for climbing coupled with one smaller post is sufficient.

- Cat carrier – ALWAYS put your cat in a carrier for travel to and from the veterinary clinic. It is not safe to carry your kitten in your arms. If a loud noise spooks her, she may get away from you. It is also a good idea to make the carrier into a bed and leave it out at home for the kitten to get comfortable with.

Extras

- Bed – Kittens prefer beds with sides/walls. You can purchase these, or make them at home using a shoebox lined with a soft fabric.

- Toys – Not all cat toys are safe! Choose sturdy, fabric-covered toys that do not have small parts that can be swallowed, such as bells or plastic eyes. If the toy has a tail, be sure to cut the majority of the length off before giving it to the kitten.

- Treats – Choose healthy treats such as those designed for cleaning teeth or choose Pill Pockets, which are designed for hiding medication. It is a good idea to get your cat hooked on these long before he needs a pill!

Grooming supplies:

- Hair Trimmers – If you have a long-haired cat, invest in a good pair of electric clippers for dealing with matts and keeping the fur on the rear end short! These are much safer than using scissors to remove a matt.

- Brushes and combs – Ask your veterinarian which type to purchase for your kitten’s fur.

- Cat nail trimmers – Again, ask your veterinarian for a recommendation and a demonstration of how to trim cat toenails safely.

- Kitten toothbrush and kitten-safe toothpaste

Your kitten will also need a collar with tags, even if they are an indoor-only cat (all kittens need to stay indoors for several months at least), in case they get lost. Regardless of indoor/outdoor status, all kittens should be microchipped during one of their veterinary visits.

With these supplies, you will have everything you need for your new kitten. But don’t forget to kitten-proof your home as well. Happy shopping!

END

Here are a few pictures of my adorable kitties:

I got this list from the Food and Drug Association. It is really important that you know what you’re feeding your pets. We choose a raw diet from the grocery store and high grade pet foods, such as Taste of the Wild, Canidae and Felidae, Wellness, Innova, Blue Buffalo and California Natural. These are grain free diets, and you don’t see many recalls on them. What brand of food do you feed your pets and why?

Here’s the list:

The recalls on this list are primarily Class I. Definitions of Class I, II, and III recalls. Additional information about how recalls are conducted can be found at FDA 101: Product Recalls – From First Alert to Effectiveness Checks.

Note: This compiled list represents all pet food recalled since January 1, 2006. If and when new information is received, this list will be updated. The “Information Current as of” date provided above indicates when this Web page was updated; it does not indicate the date when the pet food recalls listed below were initiated. Once listed, each of the recalled pet food products remains listed, even if there are no new recalls associated with that product. Although we have taken care to make sure the information is accurate, if we learn that any information is not accurate we will revise the list as soon as possible. For initiation dates of specific recalls, click on the brand name and then the recall numbers that appear on these pages. For recalls that occurred before September 1, 2008, a date range might appear in the initiation date field. The date range indicates the timeframe within which multiple recalls of this product were initiated. For recalls that occur September 1, 2008 and after, the actual initiation date of each recall event is provided for each product. If a new recall is initiated for a product that had previously been recalled before September 1, 2008, the food product will be listed again, with the new recall initiation date. If a new recall is initiated for a product that had previously been recalled after September 1, 2008, the initiation date of the new recall event will be added to the previous date listed.

Browse by Pet Food Brand
Topics on this Page Cat Food Recalls Cat, Dog Food Recalls Dog Food Recalls Dog, Cat Food Recalls Horse Food Recalls Download All Pet Food Recalled Products Cat Products AMERICAS CHOICE AUTHORITY BEST CHOICE CAT’S CHOICE CO-OP GOLD COMPANION COMPLIMENTS DEMOULAS MARKET BASKET DOCTORS FOSTER AND SMITH EUKANUBA FAME FELINE CLASSIC FELINE CUISINE FINE FELINE CAT FOOD LION FOODTOWN GIANT COMPANION GIANT EAGLE HILL COUNTRY FARE HY-VEE IAMS LA GRIFFE LAURA LYNN LI’L RED LOVING MEALS MASTER CHOICE MEIJER MAIN CHOICE NATURAL ULTRAMIX NU PET NUTRIPLAN NUTRO NUTRO CHOICE NUTRO COMPLETE CARE NUTRO MAX NUTRO NATURAL CHOICE PAWS PERFORMATRIN ULTRA PET PRIDE PRESIDENT’S CHOICE PRICE CHOPPER PRIORITY PRIORITY US Prescription Diet Publix ROCHE BROTHERS ROUNDYS SAVE-A-LOT SCHNUCKS SCIENCE DIET SOPHISTACAT SPECIAL KITTY SPECIAL KITTY CANADA SPECIAL KITTY US SPRINGFIELD PRIZE SPROUT STOP & SHOP COMPANION Spa Select TRIUMPH WEGMANS WEIS TOTAL PET WESTERN FAMILY WESTERN FAMILY US WHITE ROSE WINN DIXIE Wild Kitty YourPet Cat, Dog Products BLUE BUFFALO Country Value DIAMOND DINGO DOCTORS FOSTER & SMITH CHICKEN Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Venison EVOLVE HARMONY FARMS Health Diet KASCO Cat LICK YOUR CHOPS Natural Balance Nutra Nugget Pounce Professional Royal Canin Dog Products ALPO AMERICAS CHOICE AUTHORITY AWARD American Bullie BEST CHOICE BIG BET BIG RED BLOOM BLUE BUFFALO Beefeaters Berkley & Jensen CADILLAC CANINE CAVIAR Champion Companion Country Value DEMOULAS MARKET BASKET DIAMOND DINGO DOCTORS FOSTER & SMITH Dermaxx Dick Van Patten’s Natural Balance Venison Dollar General Eukanuba FOOD LION Fort Dodge GIANT COMPANION GRREAT CHOICE Gravy Train HARMONY FARMS HILL COUNTRY FARE HY-VEE Happy Tails IAMS Jerky Treats KASCO KIRKLAND LAURA LYNN LOVING MEALS MEIJER MAIN CHOICE MIGHTY DOG MIXABLES MULLIGAN STEW NATURAL BALANCE NATURAL LIFE NUTRIPLAN NUTRO NUTRO MAX NUTRO NATURAL CHOICE NUTRO ULTRA Natural Way Nurture Nutra Nugget NutraGold OL ROY CANADA OL ROY US Ol’ Roy PAWS PET ESSENTIALS PET PRIDE PRESIDENT’S CHOICE PRICE CHOPPER PRIORITY CANADA PRIORITY US PUBLIX Perfect Pals Pet Life ProHeart Professional ROCHE BROTHERS Royal Canin SAVE-A-LOT SCHNUCKS SHEP SHEP DOG SHOP RITE SPRINGFIELD PRIZE SPROUT STATER BROTHERS STOP & SHOP COMPANION Safe-Guard Sensible Choice SmartPak Stater Brothers Thyroxine Thyroxyl WEGMANS BRUISER WEIS TOTAL PET WESTERN FAMILY US WHITE ROSE WINN DIXIE Yourpet Dog, Cat Products AUTHORITY AWARD BEST CHOICE CO-OP GOLD COMPLIMENTS Fort Dodge HEALTH DIET GOURMET CUISINE HILL COUNTRY FARE HY-VEE LA GRIFFE MASTER CHOICE NATURAL LIFE NUPET OL ROY CANADA PERFORMATRIN ULTRA PET PRIDE PRESIDENT’S CHOICE PRIORITY SCHNUCKS SPRINGFIELD PRIZE STATER BROTHERS TRIUMPH TRULY WESTERN FAMILY Horse Products Co-op 11 percent Sweet Horse Feed Coarse Feed Mixes Grain Mix Hoof & Coat for Horses Southern States Wsi Pride
Download All Pet Food Recalled Products Pet Food Recalled Products [Excel - 1062 KB] [PDF - 460 KB] [XML] Download Microsoft Excel Viewer Download Acrobat Reader

I’ve gotten this in my email box quite a few times and it never ceases to make me laugh, so I thought I’d share. Obviously this is NOT the correct way to give a pill to cat. I found a few links that do describe a better way to give your cat a pill and will list them below the article.

How to Give a Cat a Pill (followed by How to Give a Dog a Pill)

1. Pick up cat and cradle it in the crook of your left arm, as if holding a baby. Position right forefinger and thumb on either side of cat’s mouth and gently apply pressure to cheeks while holding pill in right hand. As cat opens mouth, pop in the pill. Allow cat to close mouth and swallow.

2. Retrieve pill from floor, and cat from behind sofa. Cradle cat in left arm and repeat process.

3. Retrieve cat from bedroom and throw away soggy pill.

4. Take new pill from foil wrapper. Cradle cat in left arm, holding rear paws tightly with left hand. Force open the jaws and push pill to back of mouth with right forefinger. Hold mouth shut for a count of ten.

5. Retrieve pill from goldfish bowl, and cat from top of wardrobe. Call spouse from garden.

6. Kneel on floor with cat wedged firmly between knees. Hold front and rear paws, ignoring low growls emitted by cat. Get spouse to hold head firmly with one hand, while forcing wooden ruler into mouth. Drop pill down ruler and rub cat’s throat vigourously.

7. Retrieve cat from curtain rail, and get another pill from foil wrapper. Make note to buy new ruler and repair curtains. Carefully sweep shattered figurines and vases from hearth, and set aside for gluing later.

8. Wrap cat in large towel, and get spouse to lie on cat with head just visible from below armpit. Put pill in end of drinking straw, force cat’s mouth open with pencil, and blow down straw.

9. Check label to make sure pill is not harmful to humans. Drink one beer to take awy taste of pill. Apply Band-Aid to spouse’s forearm and remove blood from carpet with cold water and soap.

10. Retrieve cat from neighbour’s shed. Get another pill. Open another beer. Place cat in cupboard and close door onto neck to leave head showing. Force mouth open with dessert spoon. Flick pill down throat with elastic band.

11. Fetch screwdriver from garage, and replace cupboard door on hinges. Drink beer. Fetch bottle of Scotch. Pour shot and drink. Apply cold compress to cheek and check medical records for date of last tetanus shot. Apply whiskey compress to cheek to disinfect. Toss back another shot. Throw away tee-shirt and fetch another one from bedroom.

12. Call fire department to retrieve the cat from tree across the road. Apologize to neighbour who crashed into fence while swerving to avoid cat. Take last pill from foil wrapper.

13. Tie the little sod’s front paws with garden twine and bind tightly to leg of dining table. Fetch heavy duty pruning gloves from shed. Push pill into mouth, followed by large piece of fillet steak. Be rough about it. Hold head vertically and pour two pints of water down throat to wash down pill.

14. Consume remainder of Scotch. Get spouse to drive you to the emergency room. Sit quietly while doctor stitches fingers and forearm, and removes pill remnants from right eye. Call in at furniture shop on the way home, to order new dining table.

15. Place “Free Mutant Cat from Hell” ad in local newspaper and ring local pet shop to see if they have any bunnies.

How to Give a Dog a Pill

1. Wrap it in bacon.

Humor put aside, I put a few links together to help you give your cat a pill.

Partners in Animal Health

About.com-Veterinary Medicine

Pet Place

Cats are notoriously sore losers. Coming in second best, especially to someone as poorly coordinated as a human being, grates their sensibility. – Stephen Baker

Recently, I attended my monthly meeting with Georgia Network of Professional Pet Sitters and Beth Fasnacht of Pet Watch, Inc. did a fantastic presentation on disaster preparedness. She urged us to share what we learned, so this blog is  focused on disasters and what to do about your pets. I hope you never have to practice anything that you learn from this!

Assemble a Portable Pet Disaster Supplies Kit

Whether you are away from home for a week or a day, you’ll need essential supplies. Keep items in an accessible place and store them in sturdy containers that can be carried away easily (duffel bags, covered trash containers, etc.). Your pet disaster supplies kit should include:

• Pet First Aid Kit
• Medications, vet records and medical records (stored in a waterproof container)
• Sturdy leashes, harnesses, and/or carriers to transport the pet safely and ensure that your animals cannot escape (Note: Pets will be scared, so plan for it.)
• Current photos of your pets in case they get lost.
• Food, portable eater, bowls, cat litter and litter box, and a can opener
• Information on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behavior problems, and the name and number of your veterinarian in case you have to foster or board your pets.
• Pet beds and toys, if easily transportable

“Until one has loved an animal,  a part of one’s soul remains unawakened.” ~ Anatole France

You may remember the story about my husband and me taking in the meanest little feral that we’ve ever met. She was rescued from an alley in Lawrenceville by Penny from Huff’s Flowers, along with the mama cat and also a little boy cat. The mama and brother came out of their feral state fairly quickly, but Nancy held strong to her hissing, spitting and claw swinging ways.

It was quite a journey with Nancy (who was named after the girlfriend of Sex Pistols bassist, Sid Vicious). On the advice of many folks that are experienced with feral cats, we kept Nancy in a bathroom to get her used to living indoors. That should have been only for a couple of weeks, but as I said, she held strong to being fearful and literally aggressive. Every day, 4 to 10 times per day, Denny and I would try to interact with her, going in the large bathroom, playing with her toys, luring her with treats, etc. Not much progress was made.

I was at my wit’s end, not knowing what else to do. It had been 3 1/2 months, and we were afraid to let Nancy out of the bathroom to interact with our 3 dogs and other 3 cats. We didn’t want her to get hurt or get lost in the house, basically being an indoor feral. One of my best friends convinced me that the only way Nancy will ever “come out of it” was to let her out of the bathroom, and see how domesticated cats act. Well, Denny and I discussed it and neither one of us was crazy about the idea, but we didn’t know anything else to do. We opened the bathroom door and went out into the living room to see what was going to happen.

Nancy slowly but surely came out of the bathroom, growling and hissing as loudly as possible. Then, she made her way upstairs, which is where our “cats’ room” is, where fresh food, water and litter boxes are (she also had those things in her bathroom, of course) and we didn’t see her again for 2 days. I was so scared that she was going to find a way to get into the attic or into the ventilation (there’s no way, I was just concerned about her to no end).

Of course, our two small dogs were really curious about what this little gray, growling and hissing animal was up to. We keep a baby gate at the bottom of the stairs so that the dogs don’t get into the cats’ room and eat their food or “kitty crunchies,” so they just stared up at the loft for days. Finally, Nancy showed her little face, peeking over our living room from the loft, and then jumped down onto a large wooden decorative shelving piece that we have in our living room to observe us.

Now, months later, this little kitty is another member of our family. My friend Allison was right, she just needed to interact with the other cats to see what it’s all about. There was a lot of growling and hissing from our other 3 cats at first, but now they are all buddies. Nancy follows me around in the morning at feeding time, big fluffy tail up in the air, just meowing away with our other morning beggar, Comet. She and Chili play non-stop, getting pretty rough, but still just play. They run up and down the stairs, just going completely crazy. Nancy even gets up on the couch and asks for attention from Denny and me now. She is very skittish and probably always will be, but she is as normal as a cat can ever be at this point. Nancy has come a long way and we are very proud of her! Now, if I can just find a way to teach her that she is not allowed on the kitchen counter!!!

“The phrase ‘domestic cat’ is an oxymoron.” – George Will

Feral cats are descended from domestic cats but are born and live without human contact. The difference between a stray cat and a feral cat is that strays are homeless descendants of domestic cats, but unlike feral cats, have had prior contact with humans, therefore exhibit temperament similar to that of a domesticated cat.

The average lifespan of a feral cat that survives beyond kittenhood is about 2 years for individual cats and about 5 years for those who live in a managed colony. Indoor domesticated cats live on average from 12 to 18 years, but it isn’t unheard of for them to live to their early 20′s.

There are programs called “Trap-Neuter-Release” or “TNR” that can help reduce the feral cat population. They help improve the health and quality of life for the feral cats by vaccinating and sterilizing them. This helps prevent the spread of disease and also prevents more litters being born into this harsh way of living.

Listed below are some TNR programs, rescue groups and other resources that can help you learn more about ferals and what you can do to help.

Altered Feral State: Walton, Newton & Rockdale Counties

Athens Area Humane Society: Athens

Atlanta Cat Rescue: Atlanta

CampusCats: University of West Georgia, Carrollton

Carroll County Humane Society: Villa Rica

Cat Zip Alliance: Athens

CatLanta: Atlanta

Cat Nappers: Albany

Daffy’s Pet Soup Kitchen: Lawrenceville

For Paws Sake: Conyers

Furkids: Atlanta

Georgia Humane Society: Sharpsburg

Humane Society of Forsyth County: Cumming

Island Feral Cat Project: Savannah

Lifeline Animal Project: Avondale Estates

Project Catsnip: Atlanta

Spay Georgia

The Milton Project: Savannah

The Sterile Feral: Northwest Georgia

University of Georgia: Athens

Whiskers Project: Blairsville

This information was gathered from The Humane Society and Wikipedia

Prowling his own quiet backyard or asleep by the fire, he is still only a whisker away from the wilds. – Jean Burden

You’ve heard of Meals on Wheels, right?  Well think of Daffy’s Pet Soup Kitchen as Meals on Wheels for pets.

In 1997, Tom Wargo, who’s dog Daffy is pictured below, started this much needed service. Too often people who are having money troubles think that they must give up their beloved pets because they can’t afford them anymore. Daffy’s is there for those folks to provide food every month for their pets. In the last year, Daffy’s has given away over 80 tons of pet food. The only thing that Tom asks for is that the people who come and receive pet food volunteer in the community that for at least 5 hours per month. It doesn’t have to be Daffy’s, although the organization solely depends on volunteers. You could volunteer at your church, the local animal shelter, homeless shelter, or anywhere in between. He just wants to be sure that the good deeds get “paid forward.”

Daffy’s Pet Soup Kitchen depends on donations. They have a warehouse in Lawrenceville with pet food of all types, but there’s a problem. Daffy’s is running very low on dry dog food and monetary donations. If you can help in any way, it is greatly appreciated and will also warm your heart. If you need pet food, don’t be shy! You will feel welcomed and they are happy to help you keep your pets fed. See the Daffy’s website for the calendar of days that they are open and stop by the warehouse:

2160 Oakland Industrial Court, Suite 100 in Lawrenceville, GA. For more information, see the website at www.daffyspetsoupkitchen.com, email at thesosclubofga@yahoo.com, or call 404-345-6821.

“If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you; that is the principal difference between a dog and a man.” – Mark Twain

The Truth about Vaccinations

To Vaccinate or Not?

The purpose of vaccines is to energize the body to generate germ-fighting proteins made by designated white blood cells and “memory” cells, so that if an animal encounters the disease again, his system will be primed and ready to defend against it. Most vaccines are so good at doing their jobs that they don’t need to be administered every year, if at all after the initial shots.

Although your vet may tell you that the shots are needed yearly, he or she may be resisting the overwhelming evidence against vaccines. A few reasons that your vet may resist are 1. because they are afraid of the liability from failing to vaccinate as recommended by the vaccine maker 2. It’s easier to send a yearly post card to remind you about vaccinations than to educate you on the vaccines 3. some simply don’t want to lose the vaccine income.

Vaccines cause major stress to the immune system. They can cause immediate side affects and allergic reactions. Some of the possible long term damages that have been linked to vaccinations include: skin allergies, arthritis, thyroid disease, recurrent ear and respiratory infections, irritable bowel disease, neurological conditions (such as aggression or epilepsy), auto-immune diseases, and cancer.

An initial two or three vaccine series for kittens and puppies is necessary for most vaccines to be effective and should be given 3 weeks apart. Pets should not be under 8 weeks of age and should not be sick or unhealthy. Rabies vaccinations are required by law in most states, so check with your local animal control to see what the requirements are.

Studies have shown that vaccines for parvovirus, canine distemper and feline panleukopenia provide extremely long term protection from disease. 8 to 10 years long.

A blood test called a “titer” can determine if your pet’s antibody levels for parvo, canine distemper, and feline panleukopenia are high enough to resist infection.

This information was gathered from Only Natural Pet Store

A vet that I recommend to talk to about vaccinations is Dr. Kim Parker in Roswell.

Lots of people talk to animals…. Not very many listen, though…. That’s the problem.  ~Benjamin Hoff, The Tao of Pooh

This is a fantastic article from www.all-creatures.org

EXCELLENT GUIDELINES to SPOT and PREVENT ANIMAL CRUELTY!

1. Be aware. Without phone calls from the concerned citizens who report cruelty in their neighborhoods, we wouldn’t know about most instances of animal abuse. It all comes from the public, it all starts with YOU–that’s why it’s so important to keep your eyes and ears open. Get to know and look out for the animals in your neighborhood. By being aware, you’re more likely to notice, for example, that the dog next door who was once hefty has lost weight rapidly–a possible indicator of abuse.

2. Learn to recognize animal cruelty. Here are some signs and symptoms that we see in many of the cases we investigate:

· Tick or flea infestations. Such a condition, if left untreated by a veterinarian, can lead to an animal’s death.

· Wounds on the body.

· Patches of missing hair.

· Extremely thin, starving animals.

· Limping.

· An owner striking or otherwise physically abusing an animal.

· Dogs who are repeatedly left alone without food and water, often chained up in a yard.

· Dogs who have been hit by cars–or are showing any of the signs listed above–and have not been taken to a veterinarian.

· Dogs who are kept outside without shelter in extreme weather conditions.

· Animals who cower in fear or act aggressively when approached by their owners.

3. Know who to call to report animal cruelty. We’re lucky here at the ASPCA in New York City, because we have Humane Law Enforcement officers who have the power to investigate and arrest perpetrators of animal cruelty in the state of New York. But every state and even every town is different. In some areas, you may have to rely on the police department to investigate animal cruelty; in others, you may have to contact your local animal control or another municipal agency. If you aren’t sure where to report cruelty, you can search our Humane Law Enforcement directory online or ask your local humane organization.

4. Provide as much as information as possible when reporting animal cruelty. The details that you provide can go a long way toward assisting the investigating officer. It helps to write down the type of cruelty that you witnessed, who was involved, the date of the incident and where it took place.

5. Call or write your local law enforcement department and let them know that investigating animal cruelty should be a priority. Animal cruelty is a CRIME–and the police MUST investigate these crimes.

6. Know your state’s animal cruelty laws. They vary from state to state, and even from city to city. You can visit the ASPCA’s website and get a wallet-sized printout with outlines of the animal welfare laws in all 50 states.

7. You can fight for the passage of strong anti-cruelty laws on federal, state and local levels by joining the ASPCA Advocacy Brigade.  It’s frustrating when I have built a strong case against someone who has been arrested for cruelty to animals and the judge treats it like a simple violation. But with stronger laws, they’ll be more likely to receive tougher penalties. You’ll receive e-mails asking you to write letters encouraging your legislators to pass these laws–and you can send them directly from our website.

8. Set a good example for others. If you have pets, be sure to always show them the love and good care that they deserve. But it’s more than just food, water, and adequate shelter. If you think your animal is sick, bring him to the veterinarian. Be responsible and have your animals spayed or neutered. And I always give my own pets lots of hugs when I get home!

9. Talk to your kids about how to treat animals with kindness and respect. I regularly see children in homes where animal abuse has been reported. If a parent isn’t treating the family’s pets right, I tell kids that their dog or cat would really appreciate fresh water every day, or if they spent some time playing with them. If the animal has been left outside without shelter, I’ll say, ‘You have a nice house, and if you get cold, you can put a coat on. But your dog can’t do that. Don’t you think he’d like a nice warm place to go, too?’ I know of families who watch Animal Precinct together, and I think it can help children realize that animals are living creatures who have the ability to feel pain, joy and sadness. You can see these emotions on the faces of the animals on the show.

10. Support your local shelter or animal rescue organization. Before I even knew that police for animals existed, I was volunteering at an animal shelter. It’s a great way to make a difference. Some of our ASPCA volunteers foster animals who have been abused in their former homes, giving these dogs and cats the chance they deserve to have a good life. You can find a list of shelters and rescue groups in your area with our National Shelter Directory.

“The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated” -Mahatma Gandhi